Manufacture of boots or shoes



Nrrnn STATES GEORGE lV. DAY, OF HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, TO THE `BALL TURN MACHINE COMPANY, OF MAINE.

IVIANUFACTURE OF BOOTS OR SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 463,947', dated November 24, V1891.

Application filed October 3l, 1889. Serial No. 328,853. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern? Be it known that- I, GEORGE IV. DAY, of Haverhill, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots or Shoes, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

In the manufacture of boots or shoes the upper and upper-lining as lasted and secured to the sole at the toe are folded or plaited, forming thick bunches or folds, which are necessarily thicker toward the middle of the toe and very objectionable.

In turned boots or shoes, the upper being secured to the sole Wrong side out, the surplus portions of the folds of the upper edges beyond the stitches at the toe can be easily cut away after the sole and upper are stitched, they being then outside and easily reached;

but in boots or shoes having a sole sewed to the upper right side out it has heretofore been practically impossible, after the upper has been stitched to the sole, to cut away or remove this surplus portion of the upper at the toe, for the reason that it cannot be easily reached in the boot to cut it without danger of cutting and damaging more or less the upper; and the object of this invention is to trim off or cut away and remove the surplus edge portion of the folded upper at the toe in boots or shoes inside of the stitches other than turned boots or shoes, so that itcan be easily and practically done and not injure in the least the upper, nor cut the stitches; and this invention consists in the manufacture of boots or shoes as hereinafter described and claimed.

In the accompanying sheets of drawings is illustrated a machine for carrying out this invention, Figure I being a View in side elevation of such a machine, some of the parts in vertical cross-section; Fig. 2, a detail central sectional View; and Fig. 3, a detail central sectional view on same line as Fig. 2, but showing a change in some of the parts. Fig. 4 is a detail plan view of the inside of a boot or shoe at the toe.

In the drawings, A represents a stanti or frame, having a base B for supporting and carrying the operating parts of the machine.

C is a horizontal shaft adapted to revolve in bearings in the frame A and portion D of the frame, and having a d riving-pulley E, which can be connected by a belt to any suitable power for operation thereof. The pulley is loose on the shaft, but is connected thereto by a clutch F, constructed and arranged for operation, as usual in clutches, and it is connected by a rod G to a treadle, (not shown,) so that in operation the pulley revolves constantly, and the shaft is turned, when desired, by moving the clutch to make operating connection between the pulley and shaft. The shaft carries a gear-wheel H, which engages with a gear-wheel J` on the end of another horizontal shaft K, turning in bearings in the frame and having on its other end a plate or disk L, which has ahorizontal projecting pin lWI, on which is a link or arm N, adapted to freely swing thereon, and connected by its end a, by a pivot b, to an arm P, adapted to slide up and down in bearings din the casing Q, which casing is the usual horn in machines for sewing boots or shoes. It has a bearing place or rest R on its upper end for the boot or shoe.

The arm P extends upward in the chamber in the horn and has on its upper end e a knife or cutter R', which is secured thereto by a screw f, its cutting-edge being arranged to extend up through an opening 71. in the upper end of the horn when operated.

S is an arm-pivoted at m to the upper end of the frame A and projecting down therefrom through a guiding-slot T in an arm U of the frame into position for a vertical roller V, pivoted to a separate piece W of the. arm S to be over or substantially over the upper end of the horn when desired. The piece W is secured to the arm S by a screw r, passing through a vertical elongated slot Z in an arm t of the piece and screwing into the side of the lower end of the barm S. A screwu screws up into the lower end of the arm S, above the piece lV, in position for a shoulder c on saidv piece to bear against the same, the screw having holes w in its head for the insertion of a pin to turn it in or out, by which the height of the roller V from the top of the horn can be adjusted, and when so adjusted the piece is rigidly secured by tightening the screw to. Attached to the side of the arm S is a spring IOO a', its free end bearing against the outer shoulder b of the guiding-slot T, by whichv the arm, when free to move, isswung on its pivot m back into the position shown in dotted lines, Fig. 1. v

A is a disk back of and in the same vertical plane as the swinging arm S, eccentrically secured to an arm B', adapted to turn in bearings in the horizontal arm U, against which disk the arm S is held by the spring a', and to swing it forward into its position shown in Fig.- l the eccentric A is turned by its handle d from its position shown in dotted lines, Fig. l, into the position shown in full lines, same figure, where it is held against a screw C', turning in the part h. The turning of this Screw in or out regulates the forward position of the arm it is desired to have for the operation ot` the machine. The lower end of the part lV has a downward projection D', for the purpose hereinafter described.

The operation of the machine is as follows: The eccentric is turned into the position shown in dotted lines, Fig. l, which allows the spring a to swing the arm S, with the frictionroller, into the position shown in dotted lines, Fig. l, out of the way of the horn, and then the boot or shoe is placed over the horn bottom upward until the end of the horn bears at the toe end of the boot against and under the edge of the upper where secured to the sole, as shown in Fig. 2 in detail section. The arm S is then swung forward by swinging the eccentric, which brings the rollerVand-the projecting arm D into position for the boot or shoe by its sole at its toe end to bear and rest against the same, as shown in Fig. 2. The shaftCis then revolved by connecting it by the clutch to the pulley, which by its gear connection revolves the shaft K, giving, through the link connec-l tion N, to the cutter-arm P a vertical reciprocating motion, and the cutting-edge of the knife R', which is of chisel shape, and in such movements it passes out and back through the opening h at each revolution of the shaft K, and in its outward movements it cuts o the portion e of the upper F at the edges beyond the stitches g', and as the cutter is so operated the boot or shoe is guided along and turned by hand, so that the whole of this portion of the upper at the toe is presented to the cutter and cut oft, and then the arm S is swung back and the boot or shoe removed from the horn and anotherboot or shoe placed thereon and operated as before. As shown in Figs. l and 2, the portion of the upper is cut ott' at right angles, or substantially so, to

its sides; but it is desirable sometimes, especially when the upper is thick, to cut otlsuch portion on a bevel or slanting, so as not to have the end of the upper where cut too abrupt, and an arrangement for S0 cutting the upper is shown in detail section in Fig. 3, where the friction-roller V is beveled, as shown at j", at an angle, and with a single-sole boot or shoe the sole is bent up, as shown in said figure, and rests against the beveled side f of the roller, which presents that portion of the upper secured to the toe at an angle to the line of movement of the cutter, which will, as is plain, cut the edge of the upper oil? on a corresponding bevel or slanting line. The

knife is caused to move rapidly, and its length of movement is so adjusted that it will only project above the upper end of the horn sutticiently to cut through the boot or shoe upper and not any of the thickness of the sole, so as not to thereby injure it.

This invention is especially intended for cutting the upper at the toe, where it has been heretofore practically impossible to reach with cutting mechanism to properly cut and remove the edge of the upper, and the other parts of the edge of the upper along the sides back from the toe is cut in any of the usual ways.

The advantages ofthe present invention are obvious without particularly enumerating them.

In the present machine the horn is stationary-does not rotate-as in sewing-machines to which it belongs.

In Fig. L is shown a plan view of the inside of a boot or shoe at the toe after the upper F has been trimmed by the present machine, G being the sole, Y the line where the upper was cut by the machine, the dotted line g showing the edge of the upper before it was cut oft.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is- The herein-described method of attaching soles to boots or shoes, the same consisting in securing the upper to the sole right side out, then cutting and trimming the marginal edge of the upper from the inside on an oblique line, forming a beveled edge, substantially as set forth.

4In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

GEORGE W. DAY. lVitn esses:

EDWIN W. BROWN, CARRIE E. NICHOLS.

IOO

IIO 

